There are a few health problems a leopard gecko may face, and one of
them is tail loss. Tail loss is one of the worst things that can happen to
a gecko. If a gecko loses his tail, it will grow back, but it won’t be the
same tail as it was before. Its shape will be more like a head than a tail.
This is actually a great way of fooling predators. The new tail also won’t
have much color; in fact, it usually is plain white. The appearance of a
gecko isn’t that crucial, of course. But that isn’t the only problem with
tail loss. It can also compromise your leopard gecko’s health. A leopard
gecko that has just lost his tail is going to be weak and stressed, and you
will have to take special measures to help your pet survive it.
     
      Another health problem your leopard gecko might have is shedding.
Many leopard geckos cannot shed normally, and there are several reasons
for this. Sometimes the tank temperature is inappropriate. Lack of particular
vitamins can be a problem as well.
Other reasons can be low humidity, or parasites. Your gecko won’t shed if
he has parasites. This happens rarely, but it can happen so don’t be
surprised. You can carefully examine the skin of your leopard gecko to see
if he has traces of parasites. They usually gather between the toes or in
cavities.
      Your leopard gecko should be able to shed, and if he cannot do that
for some time he might become ill. It’s best to be proactive and, through
proper care, prevent any shedding problems your gecko might face.

terrain ranges from a hard clay soil to sandy gravel. Leopard geckos are

terrestrial lizards, meaning they live mostly on and under the ground. They

prefer to be hidden under rocks or in underground cavities. They are

nocturnal animals, so they remain hidden during the day and at dusk they

become more active.

Making an adequate home for your pet gecko is a challenge. You should

make sure that your vivarium resembles as much as possible his natural

habitat. In order to do that, you must first learn about the leopard

gecko’s origin and habitat.

The leopard gecko has a few basic cage requirements. If you plan to

set up a vivarium by yourself, there are a few things you should know

before proceeding.

The minimum size of the cage or tank recommended for one juvenile or

adult gecko is about 2 feet in length. However, it is suggested that a

gecko should be housed in a vivarium that has around 20 gallons. If you

plan to have a couple of geckos or more, then the vivarium will need to be

larger. Keep in mind that two male geckos should never be put together.

The vivarium should be deep, since leopard geckos need vertical space

so they can climb. To make your pet’s vivarium be more natural and

realistic, the first thing you will need is a hiding box. Hiding boxes are

very useful and your gecko will love it when he starts preparing to shed.

He will need something that resembles a humid cave, so make sure to

make a dark, humid box for hiding.

The flooring of a vivarium needs to resemble a gecko’s natural

environment as well. There are several ways to achieve this — and some

are safer than others.

When it comes to other vivarium decorations such as “furniture,” the

choice will come down to your imagination and time. However, make sure that

all pieces are placed stably in order to avoid them falling or shifting on

your pet if he stands on it. Keep in mind that a leopard gecko will climb

on anything he can!

The temperature of the vivarium should be controlled. An ideal

temperature range would be from 85 to 95 degrees in the open spot.

There are various ways to maintain this temperature.

Keep in mind that preparing a nice and natural vivarium for your pet

will require some time, imagination, and effort. A warm, safe, and inviting

home will make for a healthy and happy gecko.

any specific preparations and instructions. However, there are a few things

every potential owner should know. When you decide to get a leopard gecko

as a pet, don’t rush into it before reading up on how to take care of it.

The first thing you should know is that a lifespan of a leopard gecko

is quite long, so make sure you are prepared to make this kind of

commitment. Leopard geckos could live more than 20 years, and some could

even reach 30!

A 15-gallon tank should be enough for a couple of leopard geckos, but

if you plan to have more than one, make sure you keep only one male per

tank. Male and female leopard geckos shouldn’t be kept together unless you

want them to mate. When it comes to the tank, make sure that you decorate

it with logs or something similar so your gecko can climb and have a

somewhat natural environment. However, you should avoid sand, as your pet

might ingest it by accident and have intestinal problems. Paper works well

and is absorbent. Avoid wood shavings even though they have a nice smell;

they may pose a health risk. Whatever you are using, make sure it is kept

away from your pet’s food to minimize the risk of ingestion.

When it comes to temperature and light, leopard geckos will not

require any special UV lights. They prefer a dim light, so you could use an

incandescent or red bulb. When it comes to the optimal temperature during

the day, a basking spot of around 31 C (88 F) with a gradient to

approximately 24 C (75 F) would be ideal. For the night, the temperature

can drop to a gradient of 21-24 C (70-75 F).

Leopard geckos need to have water at all times. The water dish should

be shallow and cleaned regularly. When it comes to food, leopard geckos

prefer insects. You should feed them various crickets, mealworms, and

waxworms. All of the insects need to be gut loaded before you feed them to

your leopard gecko (check with pet store). They also need to be coated with

a calcium D3 supplement (for young geckos, every feeding; for adults, every

other feeding). Young leopard geckos should be fed daily with a couple of

crickets, and adults can be given around 6-10 crickets every other day.

Never grab a lizard by the tail! This applies to your gecko, because

his natural defense mechanism will be to drop its tail. If dropped, the

tail will grow back, but the area could get infected, and the new tail

could be a different shape or color.

      There are a few common diseases a leopard gecko could face
during his life, but some of them could be avoided if an owner
takes proper precautions.
      Here’s a look at some common health problems:
      Osteodystrophy, also called Rickets, is a deficiency in calcium
usually caused by a poor diet. If it occurs, osteodystrophy will result in
a loss of bone density. It will cause crooked and stunted growth, and the
bones will become more fragile and could be fractured easily. Symptoms of
osteodystrophy are weakness, soft jaw, tremors, swollen limbs, and crooked
legs. The best treatment for this illness is correcting the gecko’s diet
and increasing his calcium intake.
      Limb fractures are common if a leopard gecko suffers from
osteodystrophy. If a fracture occurs, make sure you have your pet examined
by a vet as soon as possible. Fractures are easily treatable, but improving
the diet in this case is essential.
      Stomach or bowel blockages could be easily developed due to
swallowing bedding like gravel or sand. To avoid this, make sure you put
your gecko’s food in a shallow bowl away from any bedding material. Cool
temperatures can also cause constipation or a blockage.
      Skin infections, burns, and cricket bites are usual causes for skin
injuries and infections. Treatment for a mild infection is Betadine or
Chlorhexidene solution, which is to be applied 2 to 3 times a day. The
treatment should last 5-10 days. For more severe infections, a change of
habitat would be needed. Dead tissue will need to be surgically removed,
and an oral treatment with antibiotics is a must.
      Respiratory and mouth infections are in most cases caused by a
bacteria that will attach to a weakened gecko. Cool temperatures,
imbalanced diets, and improper care also play a role. The best treatment
for these is diet correction and environment change.
      Intestinal parasites are common for leopard geckos. They could cause
weight loss, diarrhea, straining to defecate, and in some cases even a
prolapsed colon. Intestinal parasites should be treated with appropriate
medication together with a thorough cage cleaning.
      Egg binding happens when a female gecko refuses to lay her eggs.
Retained eggs could be reabsorbed, but if not they must be laid or removed
surgically. The signs of egg binding are easy to spot. A female will
suddenly seem fat, especially in the belly, and her appetite will slowly
decrease. You should encourage her to lay eggs by putting her in a dark
laying box with moistened sand and warm temperatures.
      Xanthomatosis or obesity is common with leopard geckos since they are
very good eaters. Their eating habits — like consuming waxworms and
mealworms more than they should — could lead them to become fat.
Xanthomatosis is an illness caused by an excess intake of fat. This can
cause severe damage to a gecko’s organs and result in a swollen abdomen.
The symptoms are a loss of appetite and loss in body weight. Treatment for
this is a high-protein diet and vitamins. Xanthomatosis could be fatal and
prevention is definitely the best approach.
      Molting problems are also quite common with leopard geckos. If the
old skin is not removed, it can lead to toe loss due to bad blood
circulation and also to eye damage. Softening the skin with fresh water and
careful removal is the best treatment. You can prevent molting problems if
you keep the gecko’s cage closed with a bowl of water inside to help
humidify the air. Spraying the lizard on a daily basis could also help the
skin to shed.
      Tail loss is one of the worst things that could happen to your
leopard gecko, so make sure you try to prevent this. A leopard gecko’s tail
is designed to break off if he is scared or handled roughly. You need to
hold him gently and NEVER grab him by the tail. If tail loss occurs, make
sure the stump is kept clean. Antibiotic ointment will be needed daily.

     Selecting the right food is very important in order to maintain a

healthy gecko. Leopard geckos mainly eat insects, and that puts them

in the insectivorous type of geckos. Before you purchase a leopard

gecko, you should find a constant supplier of food for him. You could

try to find a local reptile shop in your region or you could find a

good supplier on the Internet. Leopard geckos can eat a number of insects,

and we will talk about some of those.

      Crickets

      Crickets come in different types, shapes, sizes, and colors. Some

crickets make noisy sounds and some don’t. There is one key rule when

feeding a leopard gecko: You should give him food that is no more than his

length, and less than half the width of the gecko’s head. Black crickets

are a lot slower than other types of crickets, and that makes them an

easier catch for your gecko.

      Mealworms

      Mealworms were the best choice for a leopard gecko’s diet before

crickets become available for purchase. There are some records that have

proven that some animals have the longest life span when they are fed with

mealworms. It is best to feed your leopard gecko with newly molted worms;

this reduces the amount of chitin and also increases the nutritional value

ration.

      Waxworms

      You should avoid giving an excessive amount of waxworms to your

leopard gecko. Waxworms have a high amount of fat content and

they can even prove to be addictive for your pet. You can give your gecko

one or maybe two waxworms a week as a treat, and that should be enough.

      Locusts

      It is good if you can implement locusts in your leopard gecko’s diet

because locusts offer high protein. They may be a bit too pricey, so you

can buy them from time to time and feed them to your gecko to increase his

protein levels.

      Silkworms

      Silkworms are not common in reptile shops and sometimes it may be a

problem to get them, but they are a great source of protein. They are rich

in vitamins and minerals as well. If you are purchasing them, do not buy

too many because they have a short lifespan — lasting only one or two

weeks.

      Hatchlings and young leopard geckos should be fed 4 to 8 food items

once per day. Try to avoid feeding them more than once with

smaller amounts of food. Adult leopard geckos can be fed 4 to 10 food

items of an appropriate size, and you should do it every 2 to 3 days.

Leopard geckos usually hunt their pray at night when they live in the

wild, so it is best to place the food items after dusk in order to keep

your gecko happy.

        The leopard gecko is not just an ordinary lizard. This particular

species is special in many ways. Here are some interesting and

fun facts about these wonderful reptiles.

           * Leopard geckos have leopard-like spots that cover their body.

Their base background color is yellow or orange, but through captive

Breeding many color variants have appeared.

         * Many geckos have toe pads that allow them to climb on vertical

walls and on the glass of a terrarium. Leopard geckos, however, do

not have toe pads; instead, they have small claws.

         * Leopard geckos are very gentle, which separates them from

the rest of the lizards and makes them great as pets. You really need to

provoke leopard gecko in order to make him angry, and even if he is angry

he usually won’t bite you.

      * Nearly all geckos have a voice! Leopard geckos have a voice that

resembles a small ‘‘bark.’’ They will use it if agitated.

      * Leopard geckos can live 20 years in captivity, and in some cases

they can live even up to 30 years.

      * Leopard geckos are nocturnal animals. They like dim light and they

come out at night, and sleep during the day.

       * Leopard geckos are immune to scorpion stings.

      * Leopard geckos are great pets. You can play with them and they are

not aggressive at all.

      * A housed leopard gecko will eat bugs and bugs only, so be sure to

find a specialized pet shop that sells them. The gecko likes to eat

waxworms too, but avoid giving them too many because they contain

a lot of fat. You can give them to your gecko as a treat once a week.

 

need to select the right leopard gecko. The choice should be done carefully

and you should already have a few things prepared.

Think about the pattern and colors you would prefer. You need to like

the way he looks. The next thing is knowing your pet. You need to be well

informed about his habits, how to feed him and when to feed him, and you

should have a vivarium already set up.

Next is finding the adequate pet shop where you will purchase your

pet. There are many pet shops (herp shops) that sell exotic pets such as

leopard geckos, iguanas, snakes, spiders etc. There are also breeders that

devote their time to breeding specific species, and reptile expos where you

can find a variety of leopard geckos for sale.

Exotic pets are specific and they need specific care. They also eat

different food than cats, dogs, parrots, turtles, and other more common

pets. Knowing more about them will help greatly and will stop you from

making mistakes.

When purchasing, it is important to select a healthy leopard gecko.

It is fairly easy to notice a leopard gecko that has not received proper

care. Here are a few tips to help you select a healthy pet:

1. Look for a lively gecko, one that looks like he’s on alert. When

you approach his cage and the gecko attempts to hide, it is definitely a

healthy one. If the gecko does not acknowledge your presence, he could be

ill.

2. Examine the gecko’s body and limbs, which need to be strong and

not limp or show any signs of bone breakage.

3. The skin of a healthy gecko is lustrous. If you notice some old

pieces of skin attached to his body, it is definitely a gecko that hasn’t

received proper care.

4. A healthy gecko should be well-fed, so when purchasing make sure

you check for any signs of malnutrition. These signs will be visible on the

tail and hip region. A gecko that has been starving will have pelvic bones

visible under his skin, while a well-fed gecko will show just the faint

outlines of the bones.

5. Make sure you look for any signs of parasites. These will look

like red specks spread on the skin. Pay attention to the neck, eye region,

the leg base, and the rectal opening.

6. Finally, examine the leopard gecko for any signs of injury. It

could be a broken tail or missing toe. However, if a gecko has a toe that

is fully healed or a regenerated tail, it should not cause you to reject

him as a potential pet.

 

      Color and Pattern Variations of a Leopard Gecko

      Leopard geckos are very attractive and unique. An average

Leopard gecko is yellow with black dots, but there are many pattern

and color variations available. Many breeders are developing new

pattern variations and coming up with amazing new phases.

      Let’s start by explaining a few commonly used terms: color, pattern,

and phase (morph). When referring to color we mean the base color of a

gecko’s skin. Pattern is commonly used to describe the arrangement of

black dots on a gecko’s back. Phase (morph) is the whole collection of

selectively bred traits that affect a gecko’s final appearance.

      When choosing a leopard gecko as a pet, always go by your gut

feelings. You need to appreciate his looks and beauty.

      There are many popular morphs of leopard geckos available on the

market. These are the most sought-after geckos:

      Albino/Amelanistic — This leopard gecko is cream-colored and

has pink eyes. Many reptile hobbyists prefer albino pets simply because

they look unique, and this is why a need for this variation has arisen. When

it comes to albino morphs, there are also Albino/Amelanistic Patternless

geckos available. This variation has no spots.

      Jungle Leopard — This morph is actually the first leopard gecko

With stripes ever produced. This phase/morph varies and can produce

Totally different and unique geckos. There are also two sub categories

of this phase: the ‘‘bandit’’ jungle and ‘‘four-eyed’’ jungle leopard gecko.

The bandit jungle leopard gecko has a very broad and dark band between

the eyes and across the nose. The four-eyed jungle gecko has two white

circles, usually with a centralized black dot, one over each of the eyes.

      Normal/Wild Type — This is a typical pattern of a leopard gecko. It

consists of a couple of dark and transverse body bands and three to four

dark tail rings. It also has a lot of dark spots on the body and head that

are mixed with a tan/cream color.

      Striped — This is an attractive variation of a leopard gecko. It has

a light-colored stripe that goes all the way from the top of the head, down

the back toward the tail end.

      There are many variations of colors and patterns available for the

leopard gecko. Whichever variation you prefer or choose, this gecko is a

unique and exotic pet that — like all pets — requires care, love, and a

comfortable environment.

you know all about this specie. Keep in mind that breeding geckos comes

with risks, and it shouldn’t be taken lightly.

When it comes to breeding, if done properly it is relatively easy

once you have the female and male geckos. However, do not house a female

and male together because it can cause stress on the female and trigger

some health issues.

Making a mistake by putting two females or two males together can be

disastrous, and even fatal for one of the geckos, so make sure you know the

gender of each of your leopard geckos before placing them together.

Unfortunately, it is difficult to determine the gender of a young

leopard gecko, especially a baby. Contrary to other reptiles, the gecko’s

appearance and head size won’t tell you. Instead, you need to check the

vent, which is the base of the gecko’s tail. Both of the genders will have

the femoral pores in the shape of ‘‘V’’ at the vent. However, a female’s

femoral pores will look much fainter than a male’s. Males will also have

two hemipenal bulges below the vent.

Leopard geckos need to be mature before you even think about breeding

them, so make sure they are at least 1 year old. The female shouldn’t be

too young and she needs to be healthy and not underweight.

The mating process itself won’t be noticeable, but if the mating was

successful you will notice bite markings on the female. The mating pair

needs to be kept together for a few days — up to a week.

When the eggs start developing, you will notice that the female has

gained weight. The first clutch usually consists of only one egg, but it

can happen that they come in pairs. After 4-6 weeks, the female needs to

lay her eggs.

For the first year don’t expect many eggs, but keep in mind that

leopard geckos can lay up to 10 eggs at a time.

Prepare a laying box where your female gecko will lay her eggs. Fill

the box with around 1-2 inches of damp perlite or vermiculite. You can find

these at a garden shop. The laying box will give you some time before the

eggs start to dehydrate. If a female does not lay her eggs in the lay box,

they won’t be fertile. However, if you catch them in time before they

dehydrate, try to incubate them.

For this process, you will need an incubator to ensure that the

gecko’s eggs have a constant temperature. If any temperature fluctuations

occur during the incubation process, deformities may result.

The eggs’ incubation lasts for 40-60 days. The embryo will develop

faster in higher temperatures. Around a week before the egg hatches, you

will notice that it is somewhat swollen.

When a baby gecko starts to emerge, it will use a tooth to break the

egg’s shell. The tooth serves only for this purpose and a gecko will lose

it afterward. The process of hatching is fairly quick, so when it starts be

prepared to care for a newborn leopard gecko!